When is Christmas?

Those who find themselves in Germany on St. Martin’s Day (Nov. 11), should treat themselves here in Berlin to a Martinsgans (St. Martin’s Day goose) – which at Christmastime is called, aptly enough, the Christmas goose. Nostalgically associated with the Christmas season, this classic dish reminds me of the cooking of my mother and grandmother. Which is why, on those days, a portion of goose complete with its crisp skin plus red cabbage is an absolute must.

For the hearty version as it was served by centuries of ancestors, I highly recommend planning for a large portion of goose per person. For oat-fed goose and red cabbage, you will also need a large onion, a bunch of mugwort, apples, red wine, sugar, the juice of an orange, a few cloves, a bit of goose fat, chicken stock, salt and white pepper. The how’s and why's and other variations are best left to the mothers, grandmothers and master chefs of the world. In any case, just the thought of this meal makes my mouth water.